Removal and Prep: Removing an old powerhead can be tricky. DO NOT break any mounting bolts as they are VERY difficult to remove once broken. Especially the long bolts. USE HEAT to heat the aluminum around the bolt until the bolt comes loose. Using a small punch to break lock washer out will give you room to tap up on the bolt helping to loosen it. DO NOT "Rock" block back and forth, you may damage block. Once powerhead is removed, clean and inspect exhaust adapter plate (Mid-housing). Disassemble powerhead, making sure to "Catalog" all parts, you'll thank yourself later. When removing crankcase cover, remove locating dowels with a small punch before removing bolts. Take bare block and clean all surfaces with razor blade. If you are using a gasket scraper, be very careful not to damage aluminum block. Using a 5/16-18 tap, clean all head bolt holes. Remove deflector tubes (Rubber hoses) from between cylinders. Using a 3/8 drill bit, clean deflector slots in block, otherwise new deflector may not install properly. DO NOT touch block mating surfaces with ANYTHING other than a razor blade, held perpendicular (90 Degrres) to block. This is a Critical area, be very careful when cleaning block mating surfaces. We "Tape" these surfaces with masking tape to help protect the surface from scratching during machine shop operations. Machine Shop: When choosing a machine shop be SURE and use a shop that specializes in marine engines, or at least is VERY familiar with outboad blocks. Cylinder "Run Out" in excess of +/- .0005, from top of cylinder to bottom, will result in problems. THIS IS NOT A "CAR" BLOCK. If the machine shop does not have a Sunnen CK-10 honing machine, or similar, they CAN NOT do the job properly, regardless of the operators ability. When we rebuild a powerhead we hone the block until the cylinder is "Round". We then measure the cylinder. If it is within FACTORY specs, it is finished and we go on to the next cylinder. If it does not measure properly, it gets bored to the next repairable oversize. Running different sized pistons in a motor is within factory guideliness. Have Head Gasket surfaces checked for straightness. Once you have the block back, ready to assemble, you will need to order your parts. You will need: Pistons, as per your block and how many, if any, including sizes. Pistons are available in +.020, +.030, and +.044* Bearings, Rings (if using any pistons over again), gaskets, seal kit, carb kits, deflectors*, ROD BOLTS, and Gel-Seal. * Some Motors We offer all the parts you will need, Free Shipping, Great Prices. Starting with bare block, clean block THOROUGHLY, first with degreaser, then finish with soap and water. Make SURE to clean ALL metal, from machine work, out of block. DRY COMPLETELY. Spray cylinders down with WD-40. Make SURE that all remaining parts are cleaned COMPLETELY. Install lower seal in end cap housing with open side up. Install 2 large "O" rings on housing. Grease seal between the 2 lips and slide onto crankshaft while turning. Install 4 small "O" rings on 4 bolts and bolt end cap to retaining ring. Install upper seal in upper bearing housing. Install 2 big "O" rings. Carefully slide housing on while turning. Careful, DO NOT allow seal to "Fold" up. Installing Crankshaft: Lay crankshaft on work surface. Tun all sealing rings with end gap (open end) up. Lay crankshaft in block so that small oil holes in end cap and upper main are facing up. Starting with the lowest center main (V-6 Only) rotate bearing until centering hole in bearing "Drops" over dowel in block. Do the same with the upper center main. Place bolts in end cap securing to block. Place 2 bolts in upper main securing to block. If bolt hole do not line up, rotate until they do. If they still will not line up, check main bearings for dowel pin alignment. DO NOT try to sart bolts with a wrench, they should start easily with your fingers. Push sealing ring down into block. Crankshaft should turn FREELY. Installing Pistons: When installing new pistons, it is much easier to use "Caged" bearings. Make sure that you "Seat" circ clips in pistons. Wrist pins fall out of pistons far too often causing major engine failure. If using pistons over again, "Glass Bead" pistons to insure that ring lands (Grooves) are clean and free of carbon. Install rings making sure that the correct ring is in the correct groove and are facing up. Make SURE that small oil hole in connecting rod (Small End) is facing UP. Rotate crankshaft so that journal of cylinder you are installing is a bottom dead center (BDC). Using a ring compressor, install pistons, top side UP, being CAREFUL to insure that ring end gap is located at the ring dowel in the piston groove. Using piston mallet, or handle of hammer, GENTLY tap piston into cylinder. DO NOT FORCE, if the piston does not want to go into cylinder, remove ring compressor and check ring end gap location. Once piston is in cylinder it should move easily to the bottom of the bore. Check ring tention with tension gauge through intake ports. Slide connecting rod over journal. Spray bearing with WD-40, or oil, and install by rotating into rod. Try not to get any oil in threaded holes as you re going to use LockTite later. Install rod cap making SURE that 1) It is the correct cap for that rod, and 2) that it is on the correct way. Outboard rods are made by "Cracking" the rod into 2 pieces. Simply installing the bolts DOES NOT mean that it is aligned. Connecting rods are machined with 3 angles around each rod bolt. Using a pencil, make sure that the mating surfaces do not "Catch" when running the pencil from the rod to the rod cap. When satisfied, snug cap with 5/16-12 pt socket using OLD rod bolts. Complete remaining assemblies. Installing Connecting Rod Bolts: Starting at #1 cylinder remove ONE bolt. Blow threads out with air. Take a NEW rod bolt. Place 1-2 drops of RED LockTite on the rod bolt threads. Install and SNUG. Repeat on other bolt. When satisfied with alignment Torque to proper torque value. See Torque Values on Tech Support. Repeat until all rods are torqued properly. Installing Crankcase Cover: Both covers should be cleaned using a BRAND NEW razor blade, held perpendicularly, to remove old Gel-Seal. Wipe surfaces with accetone. Using your CLEAN finger spread a very light cote of Gel-Seal on cover side of block. Cover ALL mating surfaces with Gel-Seal. Install cover using centering dowels to insure alignment. Snug all mains equally, then Torque. Tighten 1/4" cover bolts. Do not over tighten they are only 1/4" bolts. GEL-SEAL MUST CURE FOR 24 HOURS BEFORE STARTING MOTOR. install Covers: Install intake manifold, exchange port covers, and exhaust covers. When installing Exhaust Cover and Exhaust Plate be sure that gasket surfaces are clean of any gasket material. Use Mercury "Perfect Seal" or similar sealer to coat exhaust gaskets. "Form-a-Gasket" is OK, but not as good. Remaining Tips: Carbs should be done by a shop. Grease, or oil headbolts when installing. Grease ALL powerhead mounting bolts when installing. Timing MUST be checked/set. Start, and Break-in, on DOUBLE OIL. (20 Hours) Remember: We are more than happy to answer any question, regardless of were you purchase your parts, simply Contact Us. Mercury: Follow General instruction above Mercury 2.4 motors have Chrome Bore Cylinders and can not be bored. Sleeves must be installed and RINGS for Cast Iron Bore MUST be used. Make SURE you use the correct rings in the correct cylinders when rebuilding a 2.4 Mercury. 2.0 and 2.5 Mercurys have cast cylinders [sleeves] and machine like any other motor. End Cap seals are a traditional problem with Mercurys. Failure of the seals results in water in bottom cylinder. BOTH seals install facing DOWN. Remember, these are very GENERAL instructions, but they are the steps most likely to cause a major failure. If you are rebuilding a powerhead and you have a question, Please call Ron, at 863.984.8665, 24/7. |
These assembly instructions are based on an OMC (Johnson or Evinrude) motor. Other motors are very similar, but may vary. Any questions, Contact Us. Stupid Fine Print: Viking Marine Services offers this information as a coutesy to it's customers and does not warrant ANY information to be accurate. Viking Marine Services DOES NOT assume ANY liability for this information. Use you own judgement when applying this information. Sorry, but with all the lawyers out there looking for work, we must include this. We have built OVER 200 motors using these practices and they work.... |
Removal and Prep: Removing an old powerhead can be tricky. DO NOT break any mounting bolts as they are VERY difficult to remove once broken. Especially the long bolts. USE HEAT to heat the aluminum around the bolt until the bolt comes loose. Using a small punch to break lock washer out will give you room to tap up on the bolt helping to loosen it. DO NOT "Rock" block back and forth, you may damage block. Once powerhead is removed, clean and inspect exhaust adapter plate (Mid-housing). Disassemble powerhead, making sure to "Catalog" all parts, you'll thank yourself later. When removing crankcase cover, remove locating dowels with a small punch before removing bolts. Take bare block and clean all surfaces with razor blade. If you are using a gasket scraper, be very careful not to damage aluminum block. Using a 5/16-18 tap, clean all head bolt holes. Remove deflector tubes (Rubber hoses) from between cylinders. Using a 3/8 drill bit, clean deflector slots in block, otherwise new deflector may not install properly. DO NOT touch block mating surfaces with ANYTHING other than a razor blade, held perpendicular (90 Degrres) to block. This is a Critical area, be very careful when cleaning block mating surfaces. We "Tape" these surfaces with masking tape to help protect the surface from scratching during machine shop operations. Machine Shop: When choosing a machine shop be SURE and use a shop that specializes in marine engines, or at least is VERY familiar with outboad blocks. Cylinder "Run Out" in excess of +/- .0005, from top of cylinder to bottom, will result in problems. THIS IS NOT A "CAR" BLOCK. If the machine shop does not have a Sunnen CK-10 honing machine, or similar, they CAN NOT do the job properly, regardless of the operators ability. When we rebuild a powerhead we hone the block until the cylinder is "Round". We then measure the cylinder. If it is within FACTORY specs, it is finished and we go on to the next cylinder. If it does not measure properly, it gets bored to the next repairable oversize. Running different sized pistons in a motor is within factory guideliness. Have Head Gasket surfaces checked for straightness. Once you have the block back, ready to assemble, you will need to order your parts. You will need: Pistons, as per your block and how many, if any, including sizes. Pistons are available in +.020, +.030, and +.044* Bearings, Rings (if using any pistons over again), gaskets, seal kit, carb kits, deflectors*, ROD BOLTS, and Gel-Seal. * Some Motors We offer all the parts you will need, Free Shipping, Great Prices. Starting with bare block, clean block THOROUGHLY, first with degreaser, then finish with soap and water. Make SURE to clean ALL metal, from machine work, out of block. DRY COMPLETELY. Spray cylinders down with WD-40. Make SURE that all remaining parts are cleaned COMPLETELY. Install lower seal in end cap housing with open side up. Install 2 large "O" rings on housing. Grease seal between the 2 lips and slide onto crankshaft while turning. Install 4 small "O" rings on 4 bolts and bolt end cap to retaining ring. Install upper seal in upper bearing housing. Install 2 big "O" rings. Carefully slide housing on while turning. Careful, DO NOT allow seal to "Fold" up. Installing Crankshaft: Lay crankshaft on work surface. Tun all sealing rings with end gap (open end) up. Lay crankshaft in block so that small oil holes in end cap and upper main are facing up. Starting with the lowest center main (V-6 Only) rotate bearing until centering hole in bearing "Drops" over dowel in block. Do the same with the upper center main. Place bolts in end cap securing to block. Place 2 bolts in upper main securing to block. If bolt hole do not line up, rotate until they do. If they still will not line up, check main bearings for dowel pin alignment. DO NOT try to sart bolts with a wrench, they should start easily with your fingers. Push sealing ring down into block. Crankshaft should turn FREELY. Installing Pistons: When installing new pistons, it is much easier to use "Caged" bearings. Make sure that you "Seat" circ clips in pistons. Wrist pins fall out of pistons far too often causing major engine failure. If using pistons over again, "Glass Bead" pistons to insure that ring lands (Grooves) are clean and free of carbon. Install rings making sure that the correct ring is in the correct groove and are facing up. Make SURE that small oil hole in connecting rod (Small End) is facing UP. Rotate crankshaft so that journal of cylinder you are installing is a bottom dead center (BDC). Using a ring compressor, install pistons, top side UP, being CAREFUL to insure that ring end gap is located at the ring dowel in the piston groove. Using piston mallet, or handle of hammer, GENTLY tap piston into cylinder. DO NOT FORCE, if the piston does not want to go into cylinder, remove ring compressor and check ring end gap location. Once piston is in cylinder it should move easily to the bottom of the bore. Check ring tention with tension gauge through intake ports. Slide connecting rod over journal. Spray bearing with WD-40, or oil, and install by rotating into rod. Try not to get any oil in threaded holes as you re going to use LockTite later. Install rod cap making SURE that 1) It is the correct cap for that rod, and 2) that it is on the correct way. Outboard rods are made by "Cracking" the rod into 2 pieces. Simply installing the bolts DOES NOT mean that it is aligned. Connecting rods are machined with 3 angles around each rod bolt. Using a pencil, make sure that the mating surfaces do not "Catch" when running the pencil from the rod to the rod cap. When satisfied, snug cap with 5/16-12 pt socket using OLD rod bolts. Complete remaining assemblies. Installing Connecting Rod Bolts: Starting at #1 cylinder remove ONE bolt. Blow threads out with air. Take a NEW rod bolt. Place 1-2 drops of RED LockTite on the rod bolt threads. Install and SNUG. Repeat on other bolt. When satisfied with alignment Torque to proper torque value. See Torque Values on Tech Support. Repeat until all rods are torqued properly. Installing Crankcase Cover: Both covers should be cleaned using a BRAND NEW razor blade, held perpendicularly, to remove old Gel-Seal. Wipe surfaces with accetone. Using your CLEAN finger spread a very light cote of Gel-Seal on cover side of block. Cover ALL mating surfaces with Gel-Seal. Install cover using centering dowels to insure alignment. Snug all mains equally, then Torque. Tighten 1/4" cover bolts. Do not over tighten they are only 1/4" bolts. GEL-SEAL MUST CURE FOR 24 HOURS BEFORE STARTING MOTOR. install Covers: Install intake manifold, exchange port covers, and exhaust covers. When installing Exhaust Cover and Exhaust Plate be sure that gasket surfaces are clean of any gasket material. Use Mercury "Perfect Seal" or similar sealer to coat exhaust gaskets. "Form-a-Gasket" is OK, but not as good. Remaining Tips: Carbs should be done by a shop. Grease, or oil headbolts when installing. Grease ALL powerhead mounting bolts when installing. Timing MUST be checked/set. Use NGK spark plugs. Start, and Break-in, on DOUBLE OIL. (20 Hours) Remember: We are more than happy to answer any question, regardless of were you purchase your parts, simply Contact Us. |
Rebuilding an outboard powerhead is NOT for anyone who is not very mechanically inclined. Keep in mind, you are building a motor with VERY expensive parts, including Blocks and Crankshafts, ALL worth Big money. ANY simple mistake can cost you thousands. If you have ANY questions, please take a minute and Contact Us. |
2 Cycle Outboard Powerhead Rebuild |
Rebuilding an outboard powerhead is NOT for anyone who is not very mechanically inclined. Keep in mind, you are building a motor with VERY expensive parts, including Blocks and Crankshafts, ALL worth Big money. ANY simple mistake can cost you thousands. If you have ANY questions, please take a minute and Contact Us. |
Removal and Prep: Removing an old powerhead can be tricky. DO NOT break any mounting bolts as they are VERY difficult to remove once broken. Especially the long bolts. USE HEAT to heat the aluminum around the bolt until the bolt comes loose. Using a small punch to break lock washer out will give you room to tap up on the bolt helping to loosen it. DO NOT "Rock" block back and forth, you may damage block. Once powerhead is removed, clean and inspect exhaust adapter plate (Mid-housing). Disassemble powerhead, making sure to "Catalog" all parts, you'll thank yourself later. When removing crankcase cover, remove locating dowels with a small punch before removing bolts. Take bare block and clean all surfaces with razor blade. If you are using a gasket scraper, be very careful not to damage aluminum block. Using a 5/16-18 tap, clean all head bolt holes. Remove deflector tubes (Rubber hoses) from between cylinders. Using a 3/8 drill bit, clean deflector slots in block, otherwise new deflector may not install properly. DO NOT touch block mating surfaces with ANYTHING other than a razor blade, held perpendicular (90 Degrres) to block. This is a Critical area, be very careful when cleaning block mating surfaces. We "Tape" these surfaces with masking tape to help protect the surface from scratching during machine shop operations. Machine Shop: When choosing a machine shop be SURE and use a shop that specializes in marine engines, or at least is VERY familiar with outboad blocks. Cylinder "Run Out" in excess of +/- .0005, from top of cylinder to bottom, will result in problems. THIS IS NOT A "CAR" BLOCK. If the machine shop does not have a Sunnen CK-10 honing machine, or similar, they CAN NOT do the job properly, regardless of the operators ability. When we rebuild a powerhead we hone the block until the cylinder is "Round". We then measure the cylinder. If it is within FACTORY specs, it is finished and we go on to the next cylinder. If it does not measure properly, it gets bored to the next repairable oversize. Running different sized pistons in a motor is within factory guideliness. Have Head Gasket surfaces checked for straightness. Once you have the block back, ready to assemble, you will need to order your parts. You will need: Pistons, as per your block and how many, if any, including sizes. Pistons are available in +.020, +.030, and +.044* Bearings, Rings (if using any pistons over again), gaskets, seal kit, carb kits, deflectors*, ROD BOLTS, and Gel-Seal. * Some Motors We offer all the parts you will need, Free Shipping, Great Prices. Starting with bare block, clean block THOROUGHLY, first with degreaser, then finish with soap and water. Make SURE to clean ALL metal, from machine work, out of block. DRY COMPLETELY. Spray cylinders down with WD-40. Make SURE that all remaining parts are cleaned COMPLETELY. Install lower seal in end cap housing with open side up. Install 2 large "O" rings on housing. Grease seal between the 2 lips and slide onto crankshaft while turning. Install 4 small "O" rings on 4 bolts and bolt end cap to retaining ring. Install upper seal in upper bearing housing. Install 2 big "O" rings. Carefully slide housing on while turning. Careful, DO NOT allow seal to "Fold" up. Installing Crankshaft: Lay crankshaft on work surface. Tun all sealing rings with end gap (open end) up. Lay crankshaft in block so that small oil holes in end cap and upper main are facing up. Starting with the lowest center main (V-6 Only) rotate bearing until centering hole in bearing "Drops" over dowel in block. Do the same with the upper center main. Place bolts in end cap securing to block. Place 2 bolts in upper main securing to block. If bolt hole do not line up, rotate until they do. If they still will not line up, check main bearings for dowel pin alignment. DO NOT try to sart bolts with a wrench, they should start easily with your fingers. Push sealing ring down into block. Crankshaft should turn FREELY. Installing Pistons: When installing new pistons, it is much easier to use "Caged" bearings. Make sure that you "Seat" circ clips in pistons. Wrist pins fall out of pistons far too often causing major engine failure. If using pistons over again, "Glass Bead" pistons to insure that ring lands (Grooves) are clean and free of carbon. Install rings making sure that the correct ring is in the correct groove and are facing up. Make SURE that small oil hole in connecting rod (Small End) is facing UP. Rotate crankshaft so that journal of cylinder you are installing is a bottom dead center (BDC). Using a ring compressor, install pistons, top side UP, being CAREFUL to insure that ring end gap is located at the ring dowel in the piston groove. Using piston mallet, or handle of hammer, GENTLY tap piston into cylinder. DO NOT FORCE, if the piston does not want to go into cylinder, remove ring compressor and check ring end gap location. Once piston is in cylinder it should move easily to the bottom of the bore. Check ring tention with tension gauge through intake ports. Slide connecting rod over journal. Spray bearing with WD-40, or oil, and install by rotating into rod. Try not to get any oil in threaded holes as you re going to use LockTite later. Install rod cap making SURE that 1) It is the correct cap for that rod, and 2) that it is on the correct way. Outboard rods are made by "Cracking" the rod into 2 pieces. Simply installing the bolts DOES NOT mean that it is aligned. Connecting rods are machined with 3 angles around each rod bolt. Using a pencil, make sure that the mating surfaces do not "Catch" when running the pencil from the rod to the rod cap. When satisfied, snug cap with 5/16-12 pt socket using OLD rod bolts. Complete remaining assemblies. Installing Connecting Rod Bolts: Starting at #1 cylinder remove ONE bolt. Blow threads out with air. Take a NEW rod bolt. Place 1-2 drops of RED LockTite on the rod bolt threads. Install and SNUG. Repeat on other bolt. When satisfied with alignment Torque to proper torque value. See Torque Values on Tech Support. Repeat until all rods are torqued properly. Installing Crankcase Cover: Both covers should be cleaned using a BRAND NEW razor blade, held perpendicularly, to remove old Gel-Seal. Wipe surfaces with accetone. Using your CLEAN finger spread a very light cote of Gel-Seal on cover side of block. Cover ALL mating surfaces with Gel-Seal. Install cover using centering dowels to insure alignment. Snug all mains equally, then Torque. Tighten 1/4" cover bolts. Do not over tighten they are only 1/4" bolts. GEL-SEAL MUST CURE FOR 24 HOURS BEFORE STARTING MOTOR. install Covers: Install intake manifold, exchange port covers, and exhaust covers. When installing Exhaust Cover and Exhaust Plate be sure that gasket surfaces are clean of any gasket material. Use Mercury "Perfect Seal" or similar sealer to coat exhaust gaskets. "Form-a-Gasket" is OK, but not as good. Remaining Tips: Carbs should be done by a shop. Grease, or oil headbolts when installing. Grease ALL powerhead mounting bolts when installing. Timing MUST be checked/set. Use NGK spark plugs. Start, and Break-in, on DOUBLE OIL. (20 Hours) Remember: We are more than happy to answer any question, regardless of were you purchase your parts, simply Contact Us. |
These assembly instructions are based on an OMC (Johnson or Evinrude) motor. Other motors are very similar, but may vary. Any questions, Contact Us. Stupid Fine Print: Viking Marine Services offers this information as a coutesy to it's customers and does not warrant ANY information to be accurate. Viking Marine Services DOES NOT assume ANY liability for this information. Use you own judgement when applying this information. Sorry, but with all the lawyers out there looking for work, we must include this. We have built OVER 200 motors using these practices and they work.... |
Removal and Prep: Removing an old powerhead can be tricky. DO NOT break any mounting bolts as they are VERY difficult to remove once broken. Especially the long bolts. USE HEAT to heat the aluminum around the bolt until the bolt comes loose. Using a small punch to break lock washer out will give you room to tap up on the bolt helping to loosen it. DO NOT "Rock" block back and forth, you may damage block. Once powerhead is removed, clean and inspect exhaust adapter plate (Mid-housing). Disassemble powerhead, making sure to "Catalog" all parts, you'll thank yourself later. When removing crankcase cover, remove locating dowels with a small punch before removing bolts. Take bare block and clean all surfaces with razor blade. If you are using a gasket scraper, be very careful not to damage aluminum block. Using a 5/16-18 tap, clean all head bolt holes. Remove deflector tubes (Rubber hoses) from between cylinders. Using a 3/8 drill bit, clean deflector slots in block, otherwise new deflector may not install properly. DO NOT touch block mating surfaces with ANYTHING other than a razor blade, held perpendicular (90 Degrres) to block. This is a Critical area, be very careful when cleaning block mating surfaces. We "Tape" these surfaces with masking tape to help protect the surface from scratching during machine shop operations. Machine Shop: When choosing a machine shop be SURE and use a shop that specializes in marine engines, or at least is VERY familiar with outboad blocks. Cylinder "Run Out" in excess of +/- .0005, from top of cylinder to bottom, will result in problems. THIS IS NOT A "CAR" BLOCK. If the machine shop does not have a Sunnen CK-10 honing machine, or similar, they CAN NOT do the job properly, regardless of the operators ability. When we rebuild a powerhead we hone the block until the cylinder is "Round". We then measure the cylinder. If it is within FACTORY specs, it is finished and we go on to the next cylinder. If it does not measure properly, it gets bored to the next repairable oversize. Running different sized pistons in a motor is within factory guideliness. Have Head Gasket surfaces checked for straightness. Once you have the block back, ready to assemble, you will need to order your parts. You will need: Pistons, as per your block and how many, if any, including sizes. Pistons are available in +.020, +.030, and +.044* Bearings, Rings (if using any pistons over again), gaskets, seal kit, carb kits, deflectors*, ROD BOLTS, and Gel-Seal. * Some Motors We offer all the parts you will need, Free Shipping, Great Prices. Starting with bare block, clean block THOROUGHLY, first with degreaser, then finish with soap and water. Make SURE to clean ALL metal, from machine work, out of block. DRY COMPLETELY. Spray cylinders down with WD-40. Make SURE that all remaining parts are cleaned COMPLETELY. Install lower seal in end cap housing with open side up. Install 2 large "O" rings on housing. Grease seal between the 2 lips and slide onto crankshaft while turning. Install 4 small "O" rings on 4 bolts and bolt end cap to retaining ring. Install upper seal in upper bearing housing. Install 2 big "O" rings. Carefully slide housing on while turning. Careful, DO NOT allow seal to "Fold" up. Installing Crankshaft: Lay crankshaft on work surface. Tun all sealing rings with end gap (open end) up. Lay crankshaft in block so that small oil holes in end cap and upper main are facing up. Starting with the lowest center main (V-6 Only) rotate bearing until centering hole in bearing "Drops" over dowel in block. Do the same with the upper center main. Place bolts in end cap securing to block. Place 2 bolts in upper main securing to block. If bolt hole do not line up, rotate until they do. If they still will not line up, check main bearings for dowel pin alignment. DO NOT try to sart bolts with a wrench, they should start easily with your fingers. Push sealing ring down into block. Crankshaft should turn FREELY. Installing Pistons: When installing new pistons, it is much easier to use "Caged" bearings. Make sure that you "Seat" circ clips in pistons. Wrist pins fall out of pistons far too often causing major engine failure. If using pistons over again, "Glass Bead" pistons to insure that ring lands (Grooves) are clean and free of carbon. Install rings making sure that the correct ring is in the correct groove and are facing up. Make SURE that small oil hole in connecting rod (Small End) is facing UP. Rotate crankshaft so that journal of cylinder you are installing is a bottom dead center (BDC). Using a ring compressor, install pistons, top side UP, being CAREFUL to insure that ring end gap is located at the ring dowel in the piston groove. Using piston mallet, or handle of hammer, GENTLY tap piston into cylinder. DO NOT FORCE, if the piston does not want to go into cylinder, remove ring compressor and check ring end gap location. Once piston is in cylinder it should move easily to the bottom of the bore. Check ring tention with tension gauge through intake ports. Slide connecting rod over journal. Spray bearing with WD-40, or oil, and install by rotating into rod. Try not to get any oil in threaded holes as you re going to use LockTite later. Install rod cap making SURE that 1) It is the correct cap for that rod, and 2) that it is on the correct way. Outboard rods are made by "Cracking" the rod into 2 pieces. Simply installing the bolts DOES NOT mean that it is aligned. Connecting rods are machined with 3 angles around each rod bolt. Using a pencil, make sure that the mating surfaces do not "Catch" when running the pencil from the rod to the rod cap. When satisfied, snug cap with 5/16-12 pt socket using OLD rod bolts. Complete remaining assemblies. Installing Connecting Rod Bolts: Starting at #1 cylinder remove ONE bolt. Blow threads out with air. Take a NEW rod bolt. Place 1-2 drops of RED LockTite on the rod bolt threads. Install and SNUG. Repeat on other bolt. When satisfied with alignment Torque to proper torque value. See Torque Values on Tech Support. Repeat until all rods are torqued properly. Installing Crankcase Cover: Both covers should be cleaned using a BRAND NEW razor blade, held perpendicularly, to remove old Gel-Seal. Wipe surfaces with accetone. Using your CLEAN finger spread a very light cote of Gel-Seal on cover side of block. Cover ALL mating surfaces with Gel-Seal. Install cover using centering dowels to insure alignment. Snug all mains equally, then Torque. Tighten 1/4" cover bolts. Do not over tighten they are only 1/4" bolts. GEL-SEAL MUST CURE FOR 24 HOURS BEFORE STARTING MOTOR. install Covers: Install intake manifold, exchange port covers, and exhaust covers. When installing Exhaust Cover and Exhaust Plate be sure that gasket surfaces are clean of any gasket material. Use Mercury "Perfect Seal" or similar sealer to coat exhaust gaskets. "Form-a-Gasket" is OK, but not as good. Remaining Tips: Carbs should be done by a shop. Grease, or oil headbolts when installing. Grease ALL powerhead mounting bolts when installing. Timing MUST be checked/set. Start, and Break-in, on DOUBLE OIL. (20 Hours) Remember: We are more than happy to answer any question, regardless of were you purchase your parts, simply Contact Us. Mercury: Follow General instruction above Mercury 2.4 motors have Chrome Bore Cylinders and can not be bored. Sleeves must be installed and RINGS for Cast Iron Bore MUST be used. Make SURE you use the correct rings in the correct cylinders when rebuilding a 2.4 Mercury. 2.0 and 2.5 Mercurys have cast cylinders [sleeves] and machine like any other motor. End Cap seals are a traditional problem with Mercurys. Failure of the seals results in water in bottom cylinder. BOTH seals install facing DOWN. Remember, these are very GENERAL instructions, but they are the steps most likely to cause a major failure. If you are rebuilding a powerhead and you have a question, Please call Ron, at 863.984.8665, 24/7. |
